Specialized in manufacturing T-shirts for 21 years

tanktop hybrid arcade machine!

by:Teesso     2019-10-25
Design options: for this arcade machine, I would like to have a feel for full size cabinets, but with the portability of a bartop cabinet.
I don\'t have a real choice, and I don\'t have mixed cabinets I \'ve done before, so I decided to draft my own design and build cabinets from scratch!
If you notice, this arcade is built with plywood instead of a mid-sized board.
Personally, I would choose the mid-fiber board as it is easier to use, but my e-teacher insists on having an old-fashioned desktop cabinet feel (stained wood).
As a compromise, we decided to digitize the sides and dye the middle part.
These are my files about dimensions.
Unfortunately, I don\'t have the original CAD file, but in the picture shown, there is a side profile design for the following: the choice of width depends on you and the TV/LCD of your choice.
If you are using a mid-fiber board of 3/4, use this formula to calculate the total external width: 1. 5\" MDF (
If measured from the outside edge)
2 \"depending on the way you customize the arcade machine, your list may be slightly different from mine.
This is absolutely fine, personally I encourage adding twist to the preset design! Wood: (2)
3/4 \"high grade plywood 4\' x 8 \'-80-100$ or (2)
4\' x 8\'-3/4 \"medium fiber board70$ (3)
Wood-2\' x 2\' 96\'12$ (1)Wood Filler (non latex)-10$Screws: (1)
1 5/8 pack of 100 wood/drywall screws-10$ or (1)
1 finishing screw of 5/8 (better option)-15$ (1)
Small black screws 1/2 to 1 inch-4-
Acrylic and black plastic sheets :(1)
Transparent acrylic sheet13$ (2)
Black acrylic sheets-12$Hinges: (1)
8-pack lock hinge-9$ (1)
Standard 1 \"hinge-5$T-
Styling: Side Art :(2)
33 \"x 39\" poster-80$Velcro: (2)
3/4 \"x 3 1/2\" in black Velcro \"-
Glue and adhesive: ($7)1)Super Glue -5$ (2)
90 seconds epoxy-5$ (1)
Transparent wood glue-10$ (1)Rubber Cement -5$ (1)
Contact cement-10$ (1)Masking Tape -6$ (1)
Electrical tape-
Electronics: ($3)1)
Blue LED string-8$ (1)3.
5mm from RCA adapter-4$ (1)S-
Video to RCA adapter-5$ (1)X-
Arcade tank stick199$ (1)Old Laptop -Priceless (1)
CRT 32 inch TV10$Mesh (1)Speaker Mesh -
13 $ Tools: Dremel Table saw Miter saw track Sander puzzle router drill bits a wide variety of screwdrivers and Allen wrench 35 inch inkjet printer dead star. . .
To cut the frame from 4 pieces with 8 pieces of plywood, I used two methods: square cutting: table saw for square parts (
Side, top, bottom, etc. ).
When you pass through the plywood through the saw, be sure to keep the workpiece aligned with the guard and keep the outer face (
The face you want to see outside the arcade)
Most table saws are cut clockwise.
Arcade side cuts: for the side of the tank top arcade, I used the school\'s \"D size draftsman\" Hp T1100 (
44 in maximum width, it\'s really just a huge inkjet printer)
Print out the profile on the side.
I then glued the profile to the plywood with green masking tape.
To keep the plywood on my deluxe table upright, I fixed the wood in place with an old computer.
The joy of Jigsawing!
But while cutting the edges I wish I knew in advance, I learned a few pointers.
If you cut against the texture, the puzzle will tear off the veneer at the top of the wood (
Perpendicular to the general direction of wood).
To offset this, use a fine tooth drill (15-
20 teeth per inch)
To cut and keep the face you want down on the outside of the arcade.
In addition, setting the cutting speed to the highest setting helps prevent the single board from splitting.
To align, I use a square metal ruler tied to the board.
While I really don\'t think this approach will work, it turns out to be good.
To understand the look of the arcade, I decided to bring the analog frame with my \"super strong\" green concealer.
The model is very important for planning and structural analysis (
Know where to place screws).
Keep in mind that the green masking tape is not an adhesive.
I remember recording the arcade and then deciding to put it in a ridiculed position overnight.
The next day, when I came back to check my model, there were arcades all over the floor.
Just things to remember :)
Frame Housing: for the interior, I line up on the cabinet with 2 \"by 2\" wooden nails.
Starting from the base, I connected the side of the cabinet to 2 by 2 with 1 5/8 wood screw.
Outside the side (not shown)
I hit a screw every 5 inch (
About 6 at the bottom edge and 5 at the back edge).
To prevent the screws from going through the plywood on the outside, I used a counter drill bit to make a dent on the wood before putting in the screws.
If I redo this project, I will use the finishing screws instead of the wood screws as they are easier to cover than the huge countersunk holes.
TV stand: The stand is a sloping plywood across the cabinet.
For this piece, you want the top surface of the plywood flush with the outer edge of the side block (
Where to watch TV).
The plywood is lifted 5 inch from the arcade base, with two brackets cut at 45 * and simply pushed in until the TV is at the right angle.
Front and back Assembly: The back edge of the arcade machine is a bit tricky because it has to be cut at two angles (
The draft I provided eliminates this complexity).
This is a carpenter tip I learned in different forest projects: If you have 26 of these funky angles.
7. the angle of the newly cut is large (30*).
Or, if you have many different strange angles that have to be docked together, just cut all the angles at 45.
The reason is that the gap is not visible from a larger point of view (on the inside)
Therefore, it works as long as the length of the work is the same.
Top Box: top box (
Where to store the blue LED)
It was built separately and then attached to the arcade cabinet.
The bottom of the top box is 24.
5 \"x 12\" with a square cut of 18 \"x 10\" in the center of the base.
Connect 2 \"x2\" bottom bolts to the base and then connect the back of the box to 2 \"x2\" bottom bolts.
Finally, the bolts at the bottom are screwed into the actual frame from the outside (
Anti-sink screws)
And connect to the frame permanently.
There is one in the back.
5 \"later drilled into the hole, allowing the LED power cord to be connected to the rear power strip.
If I redo the back piece, I either remove it completely or just turn it into half of the current size (
Trim the top off)
Allows the wire to be easily attached to the box at the top.
TV placement: once the actual frame is assembled, another model can be placed!
Because the arcade machine is 26 inch wide, the TV base must also be 26 inch wide. Most 32-
34 inchdiagonalTVwill fit, and it is a go as long as it is 26 inch wide.
Just an interesting side story, do you see brokenTVin in the background?
This is the original CRT that will be put into the arcade and it is beautiful too!
It has a complete plane and weighs only 2 tons. . .
Anyway, I ship the arcade in the parking lot (don\'t ask)
A wheel sitting on a shelf in the arcade was stuck by a crack on the sidewalk.
According to Newton\'s law, all these are arcade machines flying in the air, down 5 feet.
Luckily, my bare toes, in sandals, caught the fall of the 200-pound cabinet there.
Nothing happened in the arcade, but the TV was destroyed (he\'s deadJim. ).
What\'s worse is my toes, or the rest.
Never wear sandals since then.
Plexiglass gaskets: placing flat Wood is the perfect choice for installing plexiglass and borders.
Since both the plexiglass and the baffle are 1/8 \", the gasket must be installed from the arcade edge 1/4.
I made two 1/4 \"marks with a ruler and pencil, and then drew a line between the two marks.
Then I installed the gasket to the inside of the arcade with 5/8 screws.
Let me warn you first before I start this section: Don\'t use cheap latex fillers!
The reason is that latex is usually non-dyed, leaving mismatched wood stains on the final product.
I made this mistake on the back of the arcade and now I have 3 cute white marks on the wood.
Wood filling: use an aspatula or putty knife to scoop some of the filling onto the tip of the putty knife.
Apply the right amount on the hole to cover, and then slide the knife over the surface of the wood.
In order to get a smooth surface, you may have to repeat this step several times, and don\'t worry even if the surface is not smooth, because you will polish it on the surface anyway.
For complex surfaces (
(Such as corners or edges)
Need to fill, use masking tape to make the barrier so that the filling will not drip down.
Wood Sanding: you must first Polish the cabinets before you stain the arcade machine!
I used the track Sander to do this.
Use 120-polish the surface of the wood
First 150 sandpaper and then 220 sandpaper through the first sand layer.
Use long and slow sweep when polishing (
Do not \"scrub\" plywood)
Dry against the grain of plywood.
If you polish perpendicular to the grain, you will see the sanding marks when you stain the plywood.
Dyeing: after the cabinet is polished, it is time for the dyeing process!
For this step, you need any type of ragpreferably cotton or some kind of material that does not peel off (
Do not use Bounty paper or toilet paper)
, And the color of your choice.
Brushes are also very easy to use.
Dyeing is fairly direct: Make sure to shake the jar, then open the jar and dip in the rag (
I used an old cotton T-shirt)into the stain.
Apply the stain to the plywood by sweeping the action to make sure it is consistent with the grain.
The longer the stain on the wood, the darker the wood will be and the more saturated (
Usually I wait 8-10 minutes)
Then wipe the stain off with a clean T-shirt.
DYE 2 coats and wait overnight for the stain to dry for the next step.
Polyurethane: Wait a night (
Or 4 hours depending on the size of the stain)
It\'s time to upgrade the arcade machine.
Polyurethane protects the wood from water damage and adds a low gloss to the outside.
To apply polyurethane, pour some of them on the rag and wipe them on the stained wood (
Same procedure as dyeing).
Waiting for a few hours, thens and the outside apply another layer of polyurethane coating with steel wool.
After applying your 3rd coat, this step is done!
Wax: also known as minwax, Wax makes your cabinet look super shiny!
This step is not necessary, but I strongly recommend waxing the exterior of the dyed wood.
Wax has the texture of butter, just scoop some from the jar (
Stripes using a T-shirt or cotton cloth)
And rub it on the cabinet in a circular way (
Just like you\'re washing your car).
Between each coat, gently polish the surface with steel wool. Apply 3 coats (
Don\'t sprinkle sand on the third coat)
Your Cabinet should be like a mirror!
Front lip: front lip of Arcade (6\" x 26)
Is something that allows easy access to the laptop and inside the arcade.
I want to put it on the hinge so I can simply flip the front lip out instead of lifting the X arcade controller.
In order to place the hinge, I had to cut out 1 \"5\" blocks from the cabinet with my teeth.
Just kidding, I used a good dremel tool.
Back cover: If you notice in the computer model of the arcade, there is no existing hole in the CRT.
But after measuring the size of the TV, I quickly understood the need to expand, and with reverse enable, it was easier to manage the power cord and wires.
Initially, the back box was made of 3/4 plywood and fixed on it with a large hinge.
The box was a bit too heavy, so I changed it out with 1/2 plywood and made the back cover with black plastic.
The end result was very good, plus I installed the lock hinge, eliminating the need for a stand-alone lock system.
Well, it turns out that I really don\'t need speakers on the upper part of the arcade because the TV speakers are big enough.
So I have a bunch of empty space that I can fill up with what I want (
Newt skittiles, etc. ).
Finally, I added the blue flashing LED to the overall design.
Speaker mesh frame: Having a hollow area at the top of the arcade is not very professional, so, to hide the interior of the upper box, I decided to align the top of the cabinet with a speaker grid.
I asked the industrial technology teacher (
Teacher Mupu)
What is the best way to install the mesh, he suggests nailing the mesh to a frame.
I plan to use a 2-layer speaker grid.
The rectangular slot above is 18 \"x 10\" and the 2-layer mesh is approximately equal to 1/1/8, so the frame must be 17 3/4x9 3/4.
The frame is pocket joined, stuck together, then I attached 3 pieces of wood to keep the frame in place (
They don\'t have to be blocks as long as the frames don\'t fall off and the screws work).
Quick coverage of black paint, the grid is ready to be bound on it!
Speaker grid installation: fold the grid into two layers of thickness.
Starting from one of the corners, pin the edge of the mesh to the edge of the frame.
Work around the box, fold the mesh over the top and bind to the inside edge of the frame.
To bypass the block, do a V cut around the edge of the block.
In the corner, cut along the diagonal, fold over the top of the frame and secure it in the appropriate position.
When you arrive all the way around the frame, you should teach the middle.
If not, pull a little hard on the mesh and add more staples.
Box selection printing: since the box selection is only 26 \"x 7\", I decided to print it out on the huge HP T1100 inkjet printer at school.
Behind the scenes when I printed out the words, I came up with a few key points: While the photo paper is good, shiny, it looks great to print, don\'t print on the photo paper.
The reason is that the paper absorbs light quite effectively, making it difficult for the LED to shine through it.
And it\'s very expensive, so don\'t print the \"first draft\" on it because it can be wasted.
For marquees, print on any kind of light, thin paper material to avoid thick textured paper.
Subtitle packaging and accessories: Another pointer I learned very quickly is if water goes into inkjetprinted-
Select the box, you can kiss, run the lantern, goodbye.
To protect the tent from damage and make it look more beautiful, please cut out an acrylic resin of the same size as the tent.
Carefully cut the tent off the paper, then use masking tape to attach the edge of the tent to the acrylic resin.
I covered the masking tape with tape and the result was OK but not exactly up to my \"high\" standard.
To simplify the connection process, I simply bought some Velcro and put the big tent Velcroed onto the arcade frame.
I made the mistake of choosing white Velcro instead of black (d\'oh! )
But it\'s not too obvious, so it\'s not a problem.
If I go back and redo the box (
I might)
I will not use solid acrylic sheets, they will make clear liquid epoxy/acrylic that can be poured on paper and then overnight the tent will solidify into a solid sheet.
No masking tape is needed and the end result will be cleaner.
Plastic cut acrylic and black plastic cut from 28 \"x 30\" size paper to 24 1/2 \"x 20\" size.
These sizes allow the screen to cover all the edges around the front of the TV and the surface of the arcade.
However, I strongly recommend cutting the paper to 22 \"height, not 20\" because 20 \"is almost inappropriate (
Too short)
It will save you an extra step on the road later.
The black plastic is cut into a border again.
I cut with a table saw;
Only cutting the interior is a bit advanced and I would recommend that those who have not used the table saw before use the dremel tool.
Set the guardrail from the left to the measured value you need (24 1/2-5=xxx)
Then slowly drop the middle of the plastic onto the saw (
Protect your fingers with pliers).
Now there should be a cut in the center of the plastic.
Slide the plastic slowly forward until you preset the mark and go back to your other mark (
Be careful not to cross the cuta line).
Repeat all 4 faces and you should have a nice square center cut out!
If you notice the black plastic TV cover, there is a 24 1/2 \"x 20 1/2 part on the bottom edge of the inner cut.
This piece is used to cover the Toshiba logo of the CRT and all the control buttons (on/off, vol + -, channel + -).
I just simply arrange the pieces to the edges and then stick the pieces in place with hot glue.
To install the baffle and plexiglass, I line up where I want it.
I then marked a point from the top 1/2 \"and from both sides 1/2\" for the two upper screws and 5 \"from the bottom and 1/2 from both sides\" for the two lower screws \".
I will use the drill bit (
Glass and baffle)
Then drill each mark out.
To prevent the plastic from moving, I screw in a screw after each drill.
I then re-aligned the plexiglass and baffle to the cabinet and pushed the screws into the wooden gasket using a screwdriver.
You should finish your TankTop hybrid arcade now.
Joy, sit down and have a few hours of fun!
The core of this program is to attract students to STEM (
Science, technology, engineering, mathematics)
Field of curriculum.
In southeast Missouri, no group of students are eagerly waiting to sign up for the engineering course, perhaps by showing them the scope of the program they can get in the STEM field, they may have some interest in these courses.
Thank you for your patience and time to read this manual and I hope you can vote for this project for any competition it participates in!
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