in gianni versace\'s creative shadow
SPINDLERJULY 29, 1997 from the sober unlined dedication on Calvin Klein\'s show, and a dazzling distance from Tommy Hilfiger and someone who believes in rock and rollmeets-
In terms of fashion, Gianni Versace is far from the idea of people at the New York men\'s wear show that ended yesterday.
Two weeks ago, the nomadic audience was in Florence.
Versace\'s final men\'s clothing collection.
Therefore, they found that the mood was not without any chill.
In his first performance this season, Klein said: \"I want to dedicate this series to the memory of Versace.
\"With the large fold ratio, the color of the Neapolitan ice cream and the cut of the male, there may be a worse commemoration
Mr. Klein\'s confident performance of the 1998 Spring and other works displayed under considerable shadow
Versace died this week. Mr.
Versace, the first men\'s clothing designer, is not looking at the Savile Row structure of the suit, but at his work as a clothing model in a women\'s studio. As Mr.
Klein\'s men\'s clothing is becoming more and more similar to his women\'s clothing collection, and it is becoming stronger and more innovative.
Young designers apparently from Mr.
Versace\'s mindset, which makes complex and interesting works by John batlitt, John Schell, Gene Meyer, Vincent falls and Sandy Dahl. In a glass-
It\'s raining heavily, Cover Gallery, Sir.
Scher talked about the influence of Mr. Versace.
\"You have to appreciate his sense of color, the direction of his print, the sheer use of his body --
He says consciousness is viable before he shows innovative fabrics like sparkling nylon, sexy sailor
Cut pants and a lively print.
The four elements of advertising are the trend of men\'s clothing this time. -
It\'s just a coincidence because these collections are in Mr.
Versace was killed.
The most jarring thing for a designer is not that the fashion giant has not stopped his death;
As Donna Karan said, this awareness will inevitably stop.
\"Advertising may be uneasy because his main suspect is being hunted down and eventually committed suicide.
Part of the reason that Versace was killed was that the murder caused designers to question the propaganda itself.
That\'s the only reason they\'re hosting a fashion show today, as retailers are now making most of their actual purchases a few weeks in advance.
This season will not be remembered for its fashion statement, but for the lack of joy in performance, cold-field performances, worker-like reactions and relief at the end of the week.
\"I think everyone is very uncomfortable,\" said Michel Montagne from Paris . \" She organized publicity for Helmut Lang\'s first performance in the United States. Even if Mr.
Lang\'s show ended with a whimsical version \"Never on Sunday\" and his clothes had a feeling of a warrior, perhaps it was the inevitable reaction of his stay in New York for so much time that the arrows embroidered on the belt, other belts, such as the military bag with a zipper in front, A vest enclosed around the body like a bullet-proof suit worn by the police.
The women he showed with the men were cut through the satin ribbon around the body, as if the defeated men were walking among the gladiators. Mr.
Lang\'s work has had such a profound impact on other designers that he has been looking for new ways to make his grim vision fresh.
The beauty of the clothing is so closely intertwined with the technical soundtrack, Pina Bausch dance choreography, the clinical separation of the model and the absolute belief in the design, there will be a positive consequence of showing his work here: the designer will realize that stealing from Helmut Lang is not like it seems
There are other changes in this depressing week.
Imagine, in the background of soft carrots, peas, and beets, the tense baby food falling on the sidewalk, concrete.
In Ralph Lauren\'s Purple Label collection, the pants are looser and the widest, with a pair of trousers tied to a tie, a la Fred Astaire and a skinny striped T-
It\'s a shirt from la Gene Kelly. Mr.
Lauren\'s Polo collection has taken a dramatic turn this season, relaxing the traditional restrictions he envisioned in power last season.
This time, the new jacket crumpled and deconstructed like a shirt, showing loose linen pants.
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Donna Karan\'s shirt has a creative boom, bleeding dye, has the best proportion of suits she has ever done, pants are easy to fit, and jackets are long and loose.
She said she was lighter than ever and threw the tail of a jacket.
Gene Meyer\'s series is as indifferent as ever, but his theme shows a bit of evolution: Connections
Dyed sweaters, polka dots and colored
The blocked shirts can all be identified as his own, but they become more and more familiar.
British colonial in India in 1960s, men\'s clothing may look a bit like Sandy Dahl;
He mixed natty plaids with paisley printed shirts, sparkling silk long jackets and slim-fit trousers.
Vincent Falls is the designer who brought Mr.
The most important thing about Versace is not because everything is particularly derived, but because every look is experimental: A loose knit crochet knit cardigan cut through a knitted vest, black leather, and a lace-up vest behind it.
It\'s hard not to respect Maurice Malone, who evades the fashion designer from the normal route of starting with a serious suit and then pretending to have affinity with street clothes. Mr.
Malone starts with jeans and hips.
Jump work clothes and design a sturdy, sober pinstriped suit for his aesthetic collection, and design a hat for the Harlem Renaissance fashion show.
Johan Lindeberg, former president of Diesel USA, presented his first full men\'s clothing collection, recalling Palm Springs in the 1960s S, as well as his Swedish heritage.
A seaweed print on the suit, he says, is magenta or mint green, from traditional Scandinavian wallpaper.
The stiff dark denim fabric is beautifully sewn with cream-colored threads, a cool set for midnight cowboys.
Andrew diben, a former hurmutt Lang protester, offered an attractive view of the delicate club dress, simple, sporty look and stylish lines.
Egyptian cotton shirts have fake buttons such as police uniforms, and the zipper is hidden inside;
The back of the collar of the shirt is embroidered with \"wic\" or \"savoir \".
The surface of the nylon jacket is wax-like, like carved with melted candles.
None of the designers captured the dark frenzy of the time, the first time in the fashion world to see a major designer murdered, who was more passionate than John batlitt.
The show is full of exciting symbolism: the \"Ballroom Blitz\" played on the soundtrack \".
Through the window, the audience can see a muscular man moving the magnifying glass in a provocative manner above his body while wearing a white swimsuit.
A live cock is caught by the arm of a model whose suit is the color of its comb.
A runway is made of rough wooden boards, like a tenacious dock for cruising, and a slash of red neon lights extends to the center.
The fashion itself is sexy and elegant, with a high waist, a stretch jersey with a tight chest, an open lace shirt, and a leather jacket full of holes.
Part of these images is the evil voodoo.
But they are mostly something else, which is a deep sex in gay culture.
Versace was murdered and besieged.
They represent Mr. liberty.
Mr. Versace represents that.
Let\'s stay on defense.
And push forward, even in this dark place
Versace never takes risks
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A version of this review was printed on page A00017 of the National edition on July 29, 1997 with the title: in the creative shadow of Gianni Versace.