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fish aquarium stand (40 breeder tank with hidden sump door)
Its size is a bit large and allows more space on the top of the car.
The goal of this aquarium booth is to have a pleasant size for both standing and sitting people as it is located in the dining room/entrance passage.
Another issue is to make sure I can get to the bottom of the aquarium without any footrest as I am only 5\'7.
In order to do both, I chose the height of 39 \"high.
Size L x W x H (inches)
: 40 gallon breeder tank-
36 3/16x18 1/4x16 15/16 20 gallon long tank-
All aquarium stands 30 1/4x12 1/2x12 3/4 (
No top decoration)-
39 1/4x21 1/2x39 What to Remember: Be sure to calculate the thickness of the material when calculating the bracket size.
I used 2x2 in the frame work, which is actually 1/2 thick.
Plywood on the outer layer is 3/4 thick.
Adding the foot to the bottom of the bracket will also make it a little higher, 3/4 in my case.
Also, depending on the way the frame is placed together, the overall size will be changed.
The cabinet is designed to accommodate a 500-pound tank at the top, with enough space and stability inside to accommodate a 225-pound tank, and looks good and bulky
Compared to the material of 1x2 or 2x4, the 4 frames are built with 2x2 materials.
The 2x2 material provides sufficient stability and retention force.
Also, they are a little cheaper than 2x4 and a little lighter in weight.
It also allows space to be needed inside the bottom tank.
The frame is stitched together, with three 1 \"wide x 1\" long nails on both sides, ensuring that the nails are rinsed with a hammer when needed.
Also used 2 1/2 nails in every corner (picture 4).
When taking the scene, try to keep each frame as a square.
This will help when the frame is combined to form the bottom of the cabinet.
While laying out the frame work, the horizontal 2x2 is located at the top and bottom of the vertical 2x2.
This provides more support due to the weight being assigned to the vertical industry rather than fasteners.
The frame on both sides is the same.
Cut 2x2: 34 1/2 \"---4 each (
Vertical domain)19 3/4”---4 each (
This is for both sides.
As mentioned earlier, make sure that the top and bottom of the vertical platform are nailed to the horizontal platform.
The overall side frame size is 19 3/4 \"wide x 37 1/2\" high.
Front and rear frame cutting 2x2: 34 3/4 \"---4 each (
For level)34 1/2”---6 each (
This is enough for the front and back.
In the picture, the central vertical part is not displayed in the front frame, but needs to be added.
They are framed.
Use two nails at the top and bottom to nail the inside vertically.
The overall frame should be 34 3/4 \"long x 37 1/2\" high.
Once you \'ve framed all around, it\'s time to put the base together.
Place a small piece of wood glue between frame members and screw them together.
Use 3 inch screws on top, bottom and middleminimum. (
The screws may have to be slightly tilted to make sure they don\'t come out of the other side as these two screws are only 3 \"wide.
If the wood is too easy to crack, you can consider
Drill holes for screws.
Make sure the frame members are tightly integrated and there is no gap as this will change the overall size of the base cabinet. Notice in (picture 2)
, The side frame is screwed to the outside of the front and back frame.
This allows for more space between side frame members (
This will be important later when installing the tank)
The cabinet was not extended to the extent necessary.
After the foundation frame is completed, it should be 19 3/4 \"deep x 37 3/4\" wide x 37 1/2 \"high \".
Two 2x2 are added to the top and bottom to help support the weight of the tank.
They measure 16 3/4 each, about 10 \"-
11 \"separate and secure at each end with two 1/2 nails. (picture 4)
Waste blocks are added (
With three 2 1/2 \"DingTalk)
Each side of the top has additional support to support the weight of the tank, as the actual tank will be placed on the top of the plywood and on the inner edge of the frame members.
While fixing the frame together to form the base, make sure that the wooden parts are flushed to the outside of the cabinet.
This will help to keep the plywood flush when DingTalk later.
Also check carefully if the base is kept on the square.
Two 4\' x 8\' x 3/4 \"plywood sheets are required.
If plywood of different thickness is used, the size of plywood needs to be adjusted.
The order of DingTalk of plywood is important because we want to cover up the edges of plywood as much as possible.
Use a table saw if any.
This helps to get a clean, square and accurate cut.
Visually arrange the cutting pieces on 4x8--
Make sure the wood grain is in the right direction and all the cuts can be made.
Cut size: top--
3/4x19 After 3/4---
37 3/4x38 1/4 front---
39 1/4 \"x 38 1/4\" surface (2)—
Door 20 1/2x38 1/4 (2)—
14 1/2 \"x 30\" all plywood is fixed with a pin for the 1 1/4 \"pin (or brads)
The actual length of Brad is about 1/8 \".
About 4 \"-5” apart.
For more stability, a small piece of wood glue is also used between the plywood and the frame.
Be careful not to apply any glue to the plywood, because if it is not polished properly, it will appear later when it is dyed.
More fasteners can be used if needed.
The remaining plywood at the bottom of the PlywoodUse.
It is not big enough to be flush with all the edges, but in any case it will be inside and invisible.
You have to slot around the 2x2 frame.
Use a clamp saw to make it easier.
Details will be discussed later.
Fixed order: 1 connect the top first.
It should be flush with the surrounding frame.
37 3/4x19 3/4 2 BACKNext connect back.
38 1/4 \"x 37 3/4\" it should be flush with the sides of the frame and the top of the top plywood (picture 4&5).
This leaves the edge of the plywood behind.
3 SIDESNext connects both parties.
20 1/2x38 1/4 per piece.
They should be flush with the front frame and overlap with the edge of the plywood on the back.
It should also be flush with the top of the top plywood (pictures 6&7).
Only the plywood edges shown now are at the top and two front corners (
Will be covered with trim later)---
It\'s okay behind.
The bottom of the cabinet is fitted with the bottom plywood in the cabinet.
In order for the plywood to be flush with the rest of the plywood, the gap needs to be cut out.
Place the plywood inside and mark the position of the 2x2 frame.
You will stand out in four corners and two center braces (pictures 8&9)
Pull out the marked plywood and cut the gap with a clamp saw (picture 10)
Since the plywood at the bottom is left by cutting other parts, it is narrower than the depth of the cabinet.
This is OK because it won\'t be seen anyway--
No need to buy more plywood.
Therefore, the depth of the gap needs to be adjusted.
The last piece in front is connected to the front. (
39 1/4 \"x 38 1/4 \")
It should cover the rest of the edge of the plywood
Only leave edges on the side and top.
I used a solid plywood in front and the opening of the door was cut off.
I do this mainly because I want the grain to match and there is no joint in the plywood.
You should have a completely closed box now.
The overall door size of the front door is 15 \"x 30 1/2 \"(
This includes the width of the corner trim).
The opening of the door is 12 1/2x28 1/4.
To cut out the opening, make a line of 4 1/2 and 17 from each side of the cabinet, and mark another 5 from the top and another 5 from the bottom.
This will be the rectangle you cut for the door. ---
It is confirmed that the opening is 12 1/2x28 1/4 and the appearance is uniform.
Drill a small hole inside the rectangle so you can install a clamp saw to cut the opening (pictures 9&10).
This door is added to the hidden sewage pool door for easy access and removal of 20 gallon sewage pool 30 1/4x12 1/2x12 3/4 inside the cabinet.
It does not fit through the front door due to the center frame.
This opening can be on either side (
This is convenient and practical for you and your pool settings)
The design of the hidden door makes it easy to remove the sewage pool, while the Cabinet looks too tacky, and after the opening is cut off, the cut and hinge are displayed on the door, and the door is installed flush.
A frame type decoration will be placed around it to hide the cut-out and look like a solid edge with a decorative decoration.
A second frame decoration is added to the top for a more uniform look--
All the decor is done in the back.
The opening of the door is 14 1/4 high and 1/2 wide.
Measure 3 5/16 from the front and back, 3 1/4 and 17 from the bottom, draw a complete square and cut it out with a clamp saw.
Drill two holes at both ends of the fixture saw blade to install, but do not be greater than 1/2 \", as the cut will be your actual door and the drill needs to be covered later with a decoration (pictures 1&2).
Square and straight cut as much as possible.
From each drill you can make good cuts without turning the blade, allowing square openings and square doors (picture 3).
The cabinet pin is used to connect the door, not the visible hinge (picture 4&5).
This is for a better look.
Fix two pieces 2x2 on each side (near center)of the opening.
These blocks are used to secure the latch.
2x2 materials must be trimmed slightly on the table to prevent them from sticking out of the opening (
This will make the opening of the pool more tightly through). (picture 8)
The roller part of the latch is fixed on 2x2 blocks.
The male end part of the latch is fixed on the door.
Once the roller part is slightly fixed, the convex end can be pushed into the roller part.
Then place the door at the top of the opening to make sure it looks Square, even around the opening.
Then from the inside of the cabinet, mark the screw hole with a pencil, and the male part of the latch will be fixed on the door.
Then pick up the door and fix the male part.
A plug block was added to keep the door flush and to prevent the door from shaking back and forth.
Use waste plywood in areas directly fixed to plywood.
Trimmed 2x2 is used on the side.
Note that the plug only sticks out 1/4 \".
This allows the opening to be kept as large as possible for the pool to pass through (picture 8).
Press the door down in place, adjust and tighten the roller part of the latch to make sure the door is still flush.
Decoration on the side of the Cabinet (
Including hidden doors)
1/2 wide with rounded corners.
This is wide enough to hide the gap and drill holes.
Wider decoration can be used if needed.
It\'s a flat decoration (
Not a corner decoration).
Cut the trim on the mitzvah saw with a 45 degree angle to form a photo frame.
The entire length of the decoration is cut to 15 1/4 of the top and bottom, and 14 5/8 of the side.
These lengths can be adjusted if needed.
The decoration is placed around the door, making sure that half of the decoration is fixed on the door and the other half is hung on the door and covers the gap.
Attach the decorations to the door using wood glue.
Put something flat and heavy on it so as to keep the glue in place when it dries.
Clips can also be used.
After the glue is dry, small nails on the back are also used. (picture4)—
These may not be needed.
Put the hidden door in place.
The frame decoration at the top can now be pasted in place.
It should match the decoration of the door and look uniform.
The edge of the frame should be around 3 \"from the side and 2 3/4 from the top. (
These may need to be adjusted a little. )
After drying, flip the cabinet to the other side with the same measurement and method, and glue the decoration in the same way.
Front door trimmer with 3/4 corner trim on all edges.
Cut corners at a 45 degree angle on the Mitter saw.
The total length of the decoration should be 15 \"on the top and bottom, 30 1/2 on the side\"CAUTION—
Since the width of all the decorations is not exactly the same, these measurements need to be verified to ensure that they fit closely around the door, with 45 degree cutting tightly combined.
Adjustments can be made if necessary. (
Note: The actual door size is 14 1/2x30.
This means that the inside or short end of the 45 degree cut on the decoration will be the same. )
Once the measurement results are verified to be appropriate, fix the glue, clip in place and dry.
Corner TRIMOne inch corner decoration is used to cover two plywood edges in the front corner of the Cabinet (picture 8).
It takes two pieces 38 1/4 long.
Glue, clip in place, dry.
These feet are made of plywood.
They are 2 \"x2\" squares nailed to the bottom of the frame.
The top decoration is made of 2x3.
The easiest way to trim is to set up the tank where needed.
Then draw a line around the tank with a pencil to place.
Cut the front and back of 2x3 to 41 1/4 and the side to 23 1/4.
Once they are cut to the right length, the end is cut to a 45 degree angle using a mitchsaw.
If everything around the tank is good and the corners are good, fix the corners together with nails or screws.
Once you fix the entire top decoration on the stand.
Ornaments that are nailed down or screwed down from the top to the stand are the easiest way to fix the trim.
I don\'t want to see the nails/screws, so I screw the trim from inside the stand to the stand.
Unless used to lift the bracket, one or two screws are required on each side.
2 1/2 screws were used to enter the top trim from the inside frame.
Two computer fans of the same size were added to the back of the stand.
The purpose is to help keep the sewage pool at room temperature.
Fans are connected. parallel)
The old mobile phone charger rated 4.
The output voltage is 9 v and 450 mA.
The easiest way to explain this without involving too much detail is to connect the positive pole of the two fans to the positive pole of the charger.
Then connect the ground wire of the two fans to the ground wire of the charger (see picture 2).
Warning: make sure the positive wire does not touch the ground wire when plugged in.
If the fan is connected this way, the two fans should rotate in the same direction.
If the opposite direction is required, either flip the wire on one of the fans or turn the fan when connecting the fan to the stand.
Weld the connection together and wrap it with tape.
Fans can put it anywhere, but it\'s 6 from the side and 11 from the top.
Track the fan to the back of the bracket where needed.
Two holes were drilled in the opposite corner of the square (picture 3)
, And saw out with a fixture in the same way as the sewage pool door.
Make sure the fans fit and remove them until after the paint/stain.
Once finished dyeing, stick the fan inside the bracket with wood glue.
Help protect the wood from water spills that may occur and hope the plywood will last longer;
Kilz is used to paint the interior White.
First apply 2 coats and then stain the outside of the bracket (next step).
Stains may spill on the inside of the stand and need to be applied to it with a third coat.
3 layers of stains and 4 layers of polyurethane coating were applied.
If the doors are attached to the stand, remove them and remove the sewage pool door.
The dyeing/fusion is messy so grab the disposable gloves and plastic tarps to protect the floor.
Polish the entire bracket with 150 sandpaper before dyeing.
If the 2x3 of the top decoration is rough, please use the lower sandpaper as smooth as possible.
After polishing, wipe everything clean with a clean and dry rag to remove the dust.
Apply stains on the stand using a foam brush.
The darkness required for the stain will determine how long the stain stays on the wood and how much coating is applied.
Just make sure that when applying stains, apply evenly along the direction of the wood texture and use a continuous movement on the wood.
Apply free stains on one side of the stand and let it sit 5-15 minutes.
The longer you wait, the darker it will be. (
Note: Do not let the extra stains dry on the wood)
If you are not sure how dark the wood you want, test it with fragments of the same material. After 5-
Wipe the excess stains in the direction of the grain with a clean rag for 15 minutes and repeat the above steps to the other side until all sides and tops are completed.
Let the stand dry 4-6 hours.
Weather conditions can affect the drying time, so it\'s best to have it sit overnight.
Once the stand is dry, apply a second or third layer stain using the steps above to make it darker if needed.
Once satisfied with the color, allow the stand to dry for 8 hours.
Once the bracket is completely dry, the first coating of polyurethane is added.
Apply a light coat with a brush.
A little polyurethane will be very long when coating.
The more you apply at a time, the greater the chance to get a bubble, and not as smooth as a finish.
Let the polyurethane dry longer than recommended to make sure it is not sticky/sticky.
After each coating is dry, use 220 of sandpaper and a small amount of sand on the entire bracket.
Clear any uneven place.
Wipe the dust with a clean rag and repeat these steps until it has a solid smooth coating.
The door allows the door to dry faster, making the stand with waste wood and nails (picture 8).
The purpose of this is to be able to get dirty/get together on both sides of the door at a time and allow it to dry in the stands.
First stain the back of the door, then flip it and place it on both stands to allow the front to stain.
If the nails are sharp, they can put small dents on the wood, so be careful.
For the drain and return pipe coming in and out of the pool, I opened a local fish shop in my tank.
After cutting the hole, just put the tank on the bracket and mark where the hole is.
Depending on the size of the cut hole, use a hole saw large enough to drill two holes and allow the pipe at the top of the bracket.
The last step is to open the door and any handle/cabinet lock.
My cat thought it was a new playground and had a great time getting in and out of the stands.
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