Specialized in manufacturing T-shirts for 21 years

everything i know about stencils

by:Teesso     2019-11-11
I recently started writing notes about template technology for a workshop in our manufacturer space.
When I saw the paint race and the Epilog Laser race, I decided to make a short note about the templates as I used a wide variety of paints to make them, the laser cutting machine will help me to take the template art to a new level.
From a short start to a whole week of design, cutting, painting and writing.
It turns out that I know a lot more than I thought! )
In the fifth grade, I learned to do simple symmetrical templates.
I was surprised that I could fold a piece of paper, draw half a spider, cut it off and track it with a marker.
Stars, hearts, rocket ships, people
My bilateral template empire is growing rapidly.
I started other artistic pursuits, but the template is still part of my painting.
My interest rekindled in my early 90 s when a friend bought a broken KISS pinball machine.
He realized that the picture of the band members on the side panel of the machine was printed on it.
He copied the templates, and soon the streets of IBOR were packed with Gene Simmons and crew.
Some of us joined the trend, and the seeds of street art from the Tampa hipsters were planted.
Soon to the beginning of the year 00 s, I lived in Waikiki and made multi-color templates on full-size adhesive labels and posted them on town.
I made \"friends\" at the street sticker scene \".
I will post a sticker and then someone else will post one next to it.
I started to identify tags and styles by placing works from other artists and even became aware of the competition.
One person will always cover my things and let others stay alone.
It became a secret social network of people I \'ve never seen before, all of whom were linked by templates and street art.
I like templates because they are repeatable but unique.
No two templates are exactly the same due to minor changes in alignment, spray and shadow.
This gives the template art and the poster a sense of confusion and raw.
The template is perfect for posters, invitations, T-shirts, art, advertising, packaging and wherever you want art or images that can be repeated.
This is a comprehensive overview of how I create bold art and posters using templates, painting and general household materials.
I will cover everything from image selection and processing to alignment and painting techniques.
We\'ll start by creating some templates, and then we\'ll learn cool ways to apply them and other techniques.
You need some basic supplies at the beginning-a hobby knife-
I found the standard Xacto knife ideal for cutting the template.
There are many sharp blades on your hands.
Blades don\'t have to be disposable!
Buying a cheap millstone from port freight and a can of oil will save you a lot of money. -Cutting Board-
I used the old mat in my friend\'s frame shop.
The purpose of the cutting plate is to protect the working surface and the blade.
The hard surface will soon break your knife tip.
A piece of cardboard on Cardboard is a good start. -
Template material-
My favorite template material is an X-ray.
I used to work in the hospital and collected old movies from the recycle bin, but with the development of modern technology, actual movies are getting harder and harder to get.
I also use a acetate film to make larger parts, but it can be expensive.
Over time, your paint will pile up on your template.
It can get so bad that it blocks smaller holes and details.
One of the main advantages of the plastic template is that if you bend the template, the accumulated paint will peel off and peel off.
To get started, the manilla folder, the Grain box, the standard printer card library or any thin, flat, easy-to-cut material can be used. -masking tape-
If I\'m recording paint surfaces and 3 m blue tape for everything else, I love the green frog tape from Home Depot, but most masking tape works. -paint-
While you can almost adapt to any paint or paint to use with the template, I prefer to use the paint.
I used all kinds of paint at a price ranging from $112 per can.
I suggest starting with mid.
Quality paint like Rustoleum Painter is Home Depot\'s choice as it covers a wide range of colors.
Krylon is another good option, but I prefer the spay tips on Rustoleum paint.
Start with white, black, gray and some basic colors.
There is nothing wrong with cheap brand paint at discount stores, they just don\'t provide coverage or various colors provided by Rusto or Krylon.
In the end, you will want to try all the brands and types of paint you can find.
Painting is a great way to get started, but I\'ll explain later how to use other paints and tools. -newspaper-
Use it to cover the working surface, the area of the mask that does not want to paint, the spills and many other uses. -
Texture and pattern material
We\'ll discuss it in more detail later, but these are things like lace, screen, mesh, and anything with a hole pattern or a cropped shape, I used to create patterns when spraying paint. -
Letters and shapes
I use process foam adhesive letters and shapes to draw letters and simple images. -basic tools-
Screwdriver, hammer, stapler, marker pen, pencil, ruler, tape measure, etc.
Nothing special, but the CNC laser cutting machine can save you a lot of time (
So, please vote for me in the Epilog Laser race! ). -
Common household items-
We will use some common items such as soap, salt, glue and recycled materials that may be around you or easily accessible. -
Protect eyes and lungs
Be sure to wear some kind of mask when you spray paint.
Safety glasses are also a good idea if you do a lot of spray.
You don\'t need to spend a lot of money, you may already have most of what you need (
Or a suitable replacement).
It\'s about concepts and ideas, not about exact formulas or rules.
View each section and make sure to read the notes on the photos.
The main thing is to have fun!
What is the template?
Printing is basically a printing technology.
Instead of using a cut image to put the ink on the surface like a stamp, we use a cut Image to selectively prevent ink or paint from spraying onto the surface.
Some of the earliest human art was created by people putting their hands on the cave wall, stretching their fingers and blowing natural ground paint onto the wall.
The urge to create graffiti using templates is an ancient instinct!
The template we now think is the opposite of what our caveman ancestors did.
Instead of using \"template \"(a caveman hand)
In order to prevent \"pigment\" from defining an image of negative space, modern templates cut the image from the plate, so the pigment defines the positive space of the image.
When we create a simple outline of a color template, we will introduce some specific concepts in the next step.
Printing draws many clues from the world of printmaking.
Like other printing technologies, printing allows multiple copies of images or information.
Printing also allows multi-color images to be drawn with several sequentially sprayed templates.
A multi-color template needs to be aligned or registered to ensure that the individual color layers are aligned.
Like traditional prints, printing requires a clean workspace and a well-planned assembly line process to create and dry multiple prints.
The best way to know what templates are and what they can do is to play with them.
Set up the workspace to cut the template anywhere.
I use a 24 \"x 18\" Masonite board with a poster board or mat board attached to it.
I usually put it on my knees and lean against the edge of the workbench or other convenient surfaces.
I have an old coffee that I can easily throw in the cut.
When you start making detailed templates, there\'s a little bit of paper or movies all over the place and it gets really confusing.
To avoid confusion, adopt a clean working method as early as possible!
A table, coffee table or kitchen table will work well when you start.
Just be careful not to destroy the surface!
Make your work space free of clutter.
Make sure there is enough space to rotate the template and the cutting board to any position. Remember-
Rotating to work to match the angle you can comfortably hold the knife is much easier than twisting your hand to cut a strange angle.
When I cut fine details, I put my elbows on the cutting board for stability.
I moved the knife with my fingers and wrists.
I move and rotate the film when my hands remain reasonably stationary.
My elbow will greatly reduce the strain on my wrist on the working surface.
When I cut longer lines, I drag the surface with a small finger to keep it stable.
I cut with a fluid movement of my arms and wrists.
Find something that is comfortable and safe for you.
If the knife suddenly has no resistance, be sure to know where it will go (i. e.
Slip off the paper, or if the tip breaks).
If it is to avoid danger, it will eventually allow you to change the grip or body position.
I am a little smart and can cut and draw with two hands. Try it-
It saves a lot of time and doesn\'t have to relocate the movie.
Planning your cuts also saves time.
When I\'m cutting text or geometry I have a lot of straight lines to cut and I\'m going to use a steel ruler to do every cut on the x-axis and then rotate the film for all y-axis cuts. Work smart-not hard!
For painting, find a well ventilated space with a table or flat working surface.
There should be room on your surface for the work you are painting, as well as your paint cans, rags and other tools.
I used an old drawing table with the advantage that it can be tilted.
I also have a couple of folded side tables where tools and other materials can be placed so that my main work space doesn\'t get cluttered.
I put my paint in the milk crate sorted by colorblues.
Green, red, yellow and brown, pink and purple, black and white and special paint.
I also have a lot of flat nets, expanded metal, screens, perforated metal plates and other plates for creating spray patterns and textures.
I will put these things on the shelf against the wall when I need them.
If you make more than a few prints, you need to think about the dry space.
I love the wire rack covered with rubber maid white plastic.
It has 10 parts and a variety of widths.
I placed three shelf parts on two standard metal folding chairs
One on the crossbar, one on the seat and one on the back.
This gives me a dry area of 30\' which is stacked when I don\'t use it.
Another option is the clothesline and the clothes pin.
Make sure your dry area is far enough from your paint area to the point where you don\'t overspray on dry prints, but close enough to not interrupt your workflow.
Printing can get messy.
Use a large number of newspapers and replace them frequently to reduce paint build-up.
Be careful not to set up prints or spray cans in wet paint.
Put on old clothes and shoes, put on a hat or headscarf and wipe your hands with some rag.
I use the GoJo hand cleaner and the Scottish Brite Amoy pad to clean my hands, but my hands have scars and calluses anyway.
Before spraying, rubbing a thin layer of Vaseline on your hands will prevent the paint from sticking to your hands, but it will make your hands a little greasy.
The best soap to paint is time.
I always have some paint on my hands.
I think this is my artist League card.
Here I will use a photo of a bird to make a decorative silhouette template.
Not a step. by-
Step description I will outline my steps to create a template using image processing softwareready image.
Specific commands for different platforms may vary, but the basic idea goes from Gimp to Photoshop for drawing.
This is a great way to make simple decorative templates for textiles, furniture and interior design.
These techniques can be used to create any single color image or even text.
When you have mastered the profile, you can try a more complex monochrome image by adjusting the brightness/contrast of a more complex image.
You can also try the \"post\" and \"crop\" effects.
With patience, you can get a lot of details from a single color template.
Image selection is important.
Of course, you can draw something as you like, but I will focus on working from photos and computer-based imaging.
While we can use software to manipulate images, it\'s easiest to start with something close to the look of the template you want.
In this case, a pelican flies behind him, and the sun makes him very dark under the bright sky.
This gives me a lot of contrast to work.
Another thing to avoid is the \"island \".
On this template, the dark part of the image will be cut out from the template material.
The bright part will be the part covered by the template material.
When a bright area is completely surrounded by darker colors, we call it an island.
This means a piece of template material that is not connected to the body of the template.
This can be solved in four ways --
Either exclude the island from the final image or add the \"bridge\" to the image and connect the highlights to the rest of the main template.
If neither of these solutions is acceptable, you can always create another layer-
We will discuss it later.
Finally, for images that require an island and other methods do not work, the riser can be attached to the main body of the island and the template and connected in a thin way to the top of the paint surface, no hard wires for visible bridges will be left.
For the first template, it might be a good idea to select an image without any islands.
The computer bit first opens the image in the software of your choice.
Crop it to the general size of the final template.
If you start with a beautiful dark image on a bright background, we just need to adjust the brightness/contrast quickly.
Convert Image mode to grayscale.
Now, adjust the contrast all the way up so you have a black and white image.
Adjust the brightness now until your image looks good.
Click OK and save the image.
If the contrast method doesn\'t work for you, you can also use tools such as magnetic lasso or wand to select an area for your silhouette and paint bucket to fill it.
Work path is not important
We just want a clear black and white image to print or track.
Now that the image is ready, we can cut the template.
There are a lot of options, so it\'s best to use the needs and resources that best suit you.
What I did was to paint X-ray film with a quick coating of Kilz spray primer.
After drying, I glued the template to the wall and projected the image onto the primer using a cheap digital projector.
I use Sharpie to track the template and cut it out with an Xacto knife.
The projector will be very convenient when we make multi-color molds, it allows us to make large molds.
Another technique is to print the image onto the card and cut it off with a hobby knife.
This is a cheap and quick way to get a template, but the paper won\'t last long.
You can also print the image onto the projector transparent paper.
This material is kept a little better and the accumulated paint is easy to fall off, but it is an expensive option and you can only use the standard desktop printer size.
The price of a box of transparent film will cover the used low-resolution projector.
If you have an old projector, the movie can be used to project your image onto a larger size material, but it is almost impossible to align the image by hand if you use multiple colors.
I have been doing it for many years and I don\'t miss it at all.
I really like my digital projector and will never go back to the cave man tool again.
To contrast, I\'m in my pre-computer days.
Xerox, talk nonsense. . . Sharpie, hand-drawn, yadda-
Yadda, Olpha, rubylith, carbon paper! @@-
Limited to pictures in books and magazines, just because people have photocopiers, geographical types make friends with them --
You see.
This is the version of more than 40 graphic artists walking to school in two directions on snow uphill.
Long story short-
Great computer!
Now that we have the template, let\'s draw it.
Find a place outside, it doesn\'t matter to spray a little water or drop a little water.
Avoid scenic spots.
Make sure your paint is only where you want to go.
Find something flat to do the test spray.
I use waste paper and packaging when I test the new template.
It\'s no use wasting good materials before we make sure we like this image.
Put a newspaper under your work area and change it regularly to keep your work clean.
The first rule of the template is that you think enough paint may be too much!
Shine on the paint.
Do a test template on a light background. Remember-
When you see the template image when you spray it, you see it itself.
When you remove the template, you will see the image color opposite the background color.
This makes it look more uniform and fulfilling.
Keep the jar moving as you draw so it doesn\'t swim or run.
When filling a larger area, it is better to move back and forth with a uniform line, and the spray width on each channel drops by 1/2.
Practice spraying a uniform coat until you feel it.
Also keep in mind that the paint will settle down so shake your jar often (
Make sure your paint is mixed together as well; )).
There is less paint on the cheap, so you may need two coats to get a good cover.
Experiment until you are satisfied with your results.
Keep in mind that part of the charm of the template aesthetics is the minor changes and flaws inherent in this process.
When you are satisfied with your image, spray it on something.
Decorate an old dresser, make a personalized gift box, make a unique set of thank you cards and make a border in the bathroom
Whatever you can imagine.
If you are printing an item larger than your template, you must block it to protect the surface from excessive spraying.
Place a piece of newsprint along one side of the template and connect it with masking tape.
Add the paper to each side until the rest of the item to be drawn is protected.
This makes your final product more neat and professional.
Wear proper breathing and eye protection whenever painting is used.
Don\'t be stingy with safety equipment.
If you just use paint once in a while, it\'s enough to use a disposable dust mask in a well ventilated area, but if you\'re going to use paint a lot, buy a respirator mask.
Make sure you get an organic solvent grade mask and replace the filter regularly.
I like old advertisers.
I made the template according to Mr. Morton Salt Girl. Spray (
Old brand of painting)
Popular cultural mascots such as Hello Kitty and Care Bears.
This style is defined by thick line work balancing with solid color fields.
It creates a cartoon look.
I often change the image in some way to create a visual jokeor theme collocated.
Image selection for this project I chose to make the template for mascot \"Rock\" from the water putty bag in Durham.
He has a bold black silhouette and a classic look of solid color.
To suit all the colors and details, this template will be done in five layers.
I don\'t use the text on his chest, so his vest will be pure red.
Please note that the brown, red and white areas are good solid color areas.
These templates are easy to cut. (
Good guys on Durham rock hard water putty note-
I am a long-term user of your product for casting brackets and filling gaps.
I use this logo for non-
For commercial arts and educational purposes only. )
The computer bits that process this image just open it in your software, isolate the image from the background, use the wand tool to select each color separately, and save each color to a separate layer using the fill tool.
The first layer will be black, it will be the entire area of the graphic, or the entire positive space of the image.
Use the lasso tool to cut the background from the image.
As you can see below, I will also save the facial features and muscle bumps on his leg as a separate layer.
By creating another layer that is pure white, we can change the order of the layers and display only one color layer at a time for printing or projection.
In order to get the black outline, we will make the black layer first.
This layer will be the whole shape of the image, or the front space, and we will paint it black.
The color layer will be applied one layer at a time to the top of this black layer, leaving the black edge as the outline.
For Brown, red and white layers, I created a new layer for each color.
Using the wand tool, I highlighted each color and filled the area on the new layer with the paint bucket.
Name each layer \"first layer Black\", \"Second Layer Tank\", etc.
Keep everything in order.
Cover the first four, but what else?
If we look closely at the face and legs of the character, we will find that his muscle swelling and features create some islands.
In this case, it would look strange to create a bridge, so I would make another black layer with facial features and bumps.
Because his teeth are surrounded by his black lips, we will save the white layer to the end.
The image will be painted black, then brown, then the second black, red, and finally white.
This is the simplest part.
When we print, track, draw, cut and/or spray these layers, how do we keep the straight lines of all of them?
The most important issue with a multi-color template is alignment or registration.
There are two points in the process of registration being crucial --
Track the image to the template material as well as when spraying a single layer.
If you are using a printer, all layers should be aligned well.
If you are using a projector, you have to do it yourself.
That\'s what I did.
First of all, I have enough X-ray film for each color layer.
The film has a standard size, so it\'s easy to line up.
I attached the first layer of tape to the wall and aligned the projector until the image was film-centric.
At this point, it is very important that the projector is not moved or collided until all layers are tracked!
Drag your white layer to the top, then place the first color layer on top of it, in which case the black outline of the entire image.
Follow closely.
Now a new film is aligned on the first piece of paper.
When it\'s in line, tape it down firmly.
Now in your software, drag the first layer behind the white layer and drag the second layer of the color layer to the top.
Repeat these steps until each color layer is tracked in a good arrangement stack.
Now that all the edges are aligned, we can separate them and cut them if we know they will align again later.
Cut the first floor.
You will soon find the most comfortable way to hold the knife and pull the wound.
Work as gently as a surgeon to avoid hand strain, accidental injury and injury.
Never force the knife and let the blade do the work.
When the first layer is finished, bring it to your paint area for a test print.
Be very careful about hobby knives!
When you do not use the cap, be sure to know where it points and replace it.
I used to have a hobby knife without a cap rolled down from my workbench, put the blade on my feet and stick it straight up.
Use cutting boards and mats.
This protects your working surface from scratches and extends the service life of the blade.
Use enough strength to go through the template material and cut into the mat a little.
Excessive power darkens the blade faster and has the potential to break the tip of the blade.
When we look at how each layer is arranged and make any adjustments, we want to do a test print.
Find a piece of scrap cardboard or cardboard larger than the template area.
Place the first template layer on the board.
I used a thin scrap mat board to tape it to the board along the left edge of the image.
I stick the other strap to the board along the bottom edge of the template.
These two mat boards make it as easy to align each layer as to put it down and slide it in place along the edge of the mat.
When your bar is in place, align a piece of paper with the bar and place the first template at the top.
Line it up and spray the black layer.
Wait about 30 seconds to remove the template carefully without dragging the template through fresh paint.
This requires some practice.
Removing the template before the paint dries can prevent the paint from gluing the paper and the template together during drying.
The 30 second wait time is not done with granite hammers, so the paint brand, humidity, temperature, paint thickness all play a role.
Experiment, wait patiently, it makes sense in the end.
Keep in mind that small flaws and imperfections are part of the charm of the template --
You can also print it out if it looks too perfect!
Since the pad strip aligns the sheet with the template, we can remove the sheet and draw another sheet.
Put the first test print on a flat surface and print a few more.
Having a separate test print for each color layer is a good rule of thumb.
If you make a mistake or change, you will want to do a new test on the new paper.
After you paint the test pieces, cut the next layer while they are dry.
For carefully aligning paper and templates to each layer of the pad strip, repeat the above registration procedure.
Make sure you have enough room for drying your fingerprints and templates.
There is a clothesline and pin on the side of my shop to hang the wet template.
Make sure they are completely dry before you stack them.
Because they are sprayed every time you use them, they build up a lot of paint and therefore dry longer.
Take good care of them and they will last for a long time.
I had Movie templates stored in the apartment in the pizza box more than ten years ago. So What\'s Next?
In the next section we will see how to turn this template into a cool textile pattern.
Now we have a cool template, but what do we do now?
If you think it\'s a textile pattern!
Then you\'re right.
A little strange).
A textile pattern is a pattern that is often repeated and is usually printed on a fabric or wallpaper.
Do an image search \"William Murray\" to see some good examples of repeated textile patterns.
Morris is a genius. his influence still exists today.
Although not as gorgeous as his work, by using a little geometry, we can turn our muscle male into a muscle male wall that can be printed on fabric or paper or even directly on the wall!
The first step in creating a textile pattern is to determine how to arrange the template or template.
Take a look at William Murray\'s work and pay special attention to how and where his pattern repeats some ideas.
I decided to arrange the template so that a row of people stood on the rising hand of the row below and raised the row above.
To keep the template aligned, I identified the points that the template touches and drew a grid that describes them.
Because my rock wall would go from left foot to right hand, from right foot to left hand, I decided to use the point of the left boot and the liar of the right hand as the connection point.
I sprayed a template in the center of the paper and after it dried I drew a line that intersect the tip of the left boot, the bending of the right hand continues on the edge of the paper in either direction
For this demo I drew a line with Sharpie, but for any real project I want a line that is \"erasable.
This is when I use chalkline.
Chalkline consists of a box of wire shafts in colored chalk powder.
When the rope unfolds along a straight line and stretches out, gently \"holding\" with its fingertips, it leaves a bright chalk dust line on the marked surface.
This dust can be applied and any unpainted chalk can be easily erased later.
This line will be my \"rock\" diagonal guide.
I sprayed another rock on the top right corner of the picture I just drew.
His left toe is carefully aligned with the bend of the hand of the previous template, and the bend of the right hand is aligned with the reference line.
I sprayed another template in the lower left corner of the original template, creating a row of three Rockys.
Next, I created a new reference line perpendicular to the first one, which intersect Rocky\'s right toe and left-hand bend and continues to extend to the edge of the paper.
Spray the new template to the top left and bottom right of the first template.
Now you can fill in the remaining space by aligning the new template with the existing template and reference line.
This method works fine for medium size areas, but for larger areas you need to build a full grid to ensure alignment.
Once you \'ve mastered this approach, try making some curtains, custom desktops, or unique picnic blankets.
The silhouette and the cartoon mascot are cool, but what about the photos?
In this section I will show you how I can make a template from a photo.
This is a great way to make memorable gifts from precious snapshots.
Photo-based template image selection is critical.
You want to choose an image with a large contrast and a good balance of light and dark areas.
Also, consider the composition of the final template image.
Let\'s take an example.
You will find pictures of my dog monkey.
I took this snapshot and cut everything except his face with the lasso tool.
This creates a beautiful triangle. (
There\'s a big secret.
Add the hidden triangle to your art and people will like it. Shhh. )
While doing a facial portrait, I tried to find a source image with a defined \"line\" between the face and the neck.
In this case, the dog\'s chin and chin lines create natural edges for the bottom of the image.
Simply cutting the image and leaving a neck stump will make the portrait look like a cut-off head.
Make your image look natural and avoid the neck stump.
Next, I convert the image to grayscale and adjust the brightness and contrast.
I make this in three colors.
Dark, medium and bright.
This allows us to draw the template in any color range, as I will demonstrate later.
Imagine your template as a black and white photo.
Some areas are black, some are gray and some are white.
In this picture, most of the head of the dog will be in light color, the dark area will be medium tone, and the dark area will be used to define the details.
You can design templates of different shades as needed.
I painted it with black, white and 8 gray flasks!
I would also like to point out that the number of details is proportional to the size of the template.
Small templates need to be simpler because smaller details are more difficult to cut and natural spray breaks the details if the details are too small.
Carefully observe the lines created by the edge of the template image.
You will notice that it may vary from a fairly sharp line to a very blurry one.
This is due to the paint mist entering under the template through tiny gaps.
There are very fine details under the spray, which makes it difficult for the image to see.
Small weight sometimes (
Coins, washing machines, fishing gear, etc. )
Can be placed on the edge of the \"holes\" in the template to narrow any gaps and create clearer images, but I like that my templates are original so I use them very little.
I open the image in my software, crop and resize.
Next, I cut off the monkey\'s head with a Corso and eraser tool.
I then convert the image to grayscale and adjust the brightness and contrast.
Next, we want to convert the image to three separate color layers.
There are several ways to do this.
The easiest way is to use posterize settings in the image editor.
You may need to re-adjust the brightness/contrast several times before you get a satisfactory result.
To better control the final image, you can use a cut filter or something like that.
To get the best effect and the highest detail, I created each layer individually and adjusted the brightness/contrast settings for the layers and edited them together.
I started making three grayscale images.
Because most of the image is a lighter shade, I turned the first layer into white.
Like the first layer in the previous section, this template will include all the positive spaces for this image.
The second floor is medium tone.
I pull one of the grayscale images to the top, turn on the brightness/contrast controls, play with the settings until I have something that looks good.
The mid-tone image helps define the outline and dimension of the image.
Here it defines the nose and eyes better and gives the ears some depth.
There are some islands but I decided to draw on some bridges.
I also smooth the layer through the cutouts.
The third floor is black and contains most of the details.
I brought up the new version of the grayscale image as usual and adjusted the brightness/contrast, but I had a problem.
I got very good eye details in a scene, but the nose is not very clear.
When I adjusted my nose to \"focus\", the details of my eyes disappeared.
The only solution is to create two separate layers and cut and edit them together.
To preview my template, I created a duplicate image first.
I convert it to an RGB color image.
I created a new layer in red.
I took the first floor to the top floor and painted it white.
Next, I took the second floor to the top floor.
I painted it gray and cut the rest of the image.
Now I have a white dog head outline with a gray area on the red background.
Next, I take the third layer to the top, select the black part and cut the rest.
This provides a preview of the look of the final template and allows me to make any adjustments.
Drawing, cutting and painting are similar to before.
I track the layers with a projector.
I use the pad strip as the alignment guide.
The main difference here is the choice of color.
While I take black, gray and white as an example, what I really do is create shades.
You can use three colors like Sky Blue, medium blue and dark blue instead of black, gray and white.
Please see the example above.
This gives us a lot of freedom to create. What\'s Next?
Try to merge several elements into the same template with different color ranges.
Try the portrait of a friend.
Mix in strange colors.
In the next section, combine this technique with the frisket technique to create detailed artistic images.
Enjoy and explore!
The disc is basically a adhesive template.
They have their pros and cons, but they are the best way for some apps.
Friskets are more advanced than the technology we introduced before, so we will have more background before we go into the actual project.
First of all, let\'s take a look at the better friskets--
Sharp, thick line of Friskets.
Since the disc is adhesive, it will stick gently to the surface, so the possibility of gap or bottom spray is less.
Friskets is suitable for commercial signage or any place that requires a clean, \"professional\" look. -
The Frisbee is much more detailed than the standard template provides.
The details are still clear as there is no bottom spray. -
There are flying discs on the island.
Since the material is adhesive, the template does not have to be placed in one piece.
This makes more detail and a more realistic approach. -
The Pan was very smooth.
Friskets are ideal for adding graphics on smooth surfaces such as automatic finishes, instruments, or glass. -
Friskets can be without borders.
Since friskets does not rely on the support of the template itself, a fixed frame can use a variety of disconnected sheets.
This allows you to do detailed scenes covering the entire surface.
This makes the effect very realistic. -
Friskets is suitable for precise design.
Sharp lines, fine details, and easy cutting make the disc machining great for geometric and precise work.
I use the adhesive to arrange the maze design, the board and even the text. -
Friskets allows for more paint and tips.
Acrylic paint with roller, process paint with template brush, watercolor painting with sponge, acid and antioxidant, wet rag, even adhesive rubber mask and sand blasting machine
The pan is suitable for various pigments, tools and processes.
Bad news now, friskets--
Friskets is used.
Since they are Adhesives and are usually very detailed, it is almost impossible to reuse them.
All the extra work may be unreasonable for the project you are planning.
I tend to save the pan for the \"art\" app or for special cases such as logo work or painted glass on the back. -
Sharp, thick line of Friskets.
Wait, I thought it was a pro?
When you want a sharp line
Part of the charm of the template lies in the imperfect workmanship.
The sharpness of the flying disc also requires more knife skills.
Bold lines amplify the defect. -
It is much more difficult to register.
The working cycle of the flying disc is to apply the film, stretch, cut, weed, paint, dry, Peel, re-apply the film, draw the next layer, cut, etc. etc.
The Frisket process is usually done on materials that make traditional registration techniques difficult.
If you use the projector, it has to stay set up and free from interference for a long time, thus increasing the chance of unexpected bumps.
More details of Friskets also require more stringent registration.
Keep these questions in mind when designing a frisket project. -
More plans are needed for the Frisbee.
There is not much room for error due to the nature of the frisket process.
Before you pick up the knife, you need to row all the ducks in a row.
Have all your supplies and colors on hand.
Make sure you have enough time to complete the project without rushing. -
It takes time to fly.
Between a detailed cut and a longer drying time, the flying pan will always be there.
Make sure the extra work is worth it before you start.
Out of sheer boredom and frustration, I have given up on the frisket project.
The material of MaterialsFrisket needs to be sticky enough to stay in place when cutting and painting, but still easy to disassemble.
It should be waterproof and easy to cut.
My favorite material for cutting a pan on a smooth surface is called Glad Press-n-Seal wrap.
It has some high-tech adhesive gimmicks that stick to a variety of surfaces and materials without leaving any schmutz or residue, while blocking the paint well.
It is easy to cut at very low pressure, so the risk of scratching the working face is low.
It was actually cut too easily.
The blade has no resistance and the working surface is usually hard and smooth, so a little practice is required.
And it\'s cheap and easy to buy.
The only real downside is that it\'s only about 12 \"wide, so you need to plan a seam if your work is wider.
The outer 1/8 of the film has no adhesive, so to obtain a continuous seal, it must be carefully folded and folded before the second film is attached.
This is a small price for this awesome material.
When you spray the newsn-
The sealing material may be slightly wrinkled or buckled.
Before spraying another coat, gently smooth it down. Insider secret-
At the end of December each year, holiday theme news --n-
Seals are sold very cheaply.
It is as good as The Snow Man and the work with Holly on it.
For heavy duty work, I use contact shelf paper.
It has many patterns, colors and textures, but the most useful is pure white and frosted transparency.
The white stuff is good for painting, and the clear stuff allows you to see the layers below in order to register better.
The frosted surface reflects the projected light better than the transparent surface.
The shelf liner is more difficult to cut than the other options, but it weighs a lot and stands up to more abuse.
When you are doing home decoration, there is a similar product for sale as a carpet protector.
It has a roll about 3 feet wide, a little thinner than the shelf liner.
Another valuable adhesive template material is masking tape.
I kept a few rolls of 3 m blue tape of different width.
If I design with a straight line or large block text layout, I usually just project the image and \"track\" it with tape.
I cover a large area using masking paper and tape and spray it as it is.
I also made bold geometric patterns, mazes and backgrounds with tape.
In the early days of my exploration of the Frisbee, I used the full-
Paper printable paper label.
The advantage of these sheets is that you can print the image directly to the frisket and then apply it.
The downside is that it\'s really hard to register, limited to 8.
5x11 \", it can leave sticky residue that must be removed before painting.
The last possibility is to customize the vinyl pan.
Look for a local signature shop with Cypress vinyl cutting machine.
This machine can make large custom cut vinyl stickers with transparent adhesive covers, and when you install it, it can hold everything in place.
They make special \"low viscosity\" Vinyl for masking and flying pan processes, although it may take some search to find people who have this material and know how to deal with them, and willing to make smaller orders.
To use it, you spray a smooth surface with micro-soapy water.
Place the cover plate and vinyl pan on the surface.
Soapy water prevents the adhesive from sticking together and allows you to slide the pan into position.
When it is in the right place, you will be careful to squeeze out the water and bubbles to make the vinyl stick to the working surface.
With vinyl in place, gently pull the cover back with a sharp angle, it leaves vinyl on the working surface.
Clean up the soap residue and paint it after drying.
This is a good way to make a flying disc, but it\'s expensive.
Save it when you are good enough to charge.
What I did was create a flying disc. -
Use the disc material.
The pan works best on a smooth surface.
Gently sprinkle your material on the surface.
I gently smooth the material with a soft silicone spatula and drain the bubbles.
When everything got smooth, I checked it carefully with a hard rubber roller for printmaking-the speedboat brayer.
This makes the disc material stick very well. -Draw your art.
Draw or trace your design to the disc material.
Ultra-fine sharpness works well under most materials and allows for higher details.
Be sure to reverse your image if you are drawing against it. -Cut it out.
Use a very soft touch when cutting the pan.
You want to go through the frisket material without marking the surface below or sliding out.
Guide your inner surgeon
Keep the blade sharp. -Weed it.
Since the fedora material is adhesive, we have to remove the cut-out part of the design.
This is the so-called \"weeding \".
I use a thin and flexible upper jaw knife to gently peel off the excess disc material from the working surface.
Be very careful when weeding for the frisbee!
Make sure the correct part is removed-
At this stage, it becomes chaotic and can easily break a layer.
Be patient and alert. -Paint it.
Make a final check on the loose edges.
Take it to the paint area and give it a light coat.
Don\'t worry about full coverage-
You \'d want to be in 2-3 thin coats. -Peel it.
When the paint was completely dry, I carefully removed the rest of the disc material.
I think this tooth cutter is very useful here. Be careful.
Paint can be piled up on the edge of the flying disc material, making it difficult to peel off and may pollute the workpiece.
When painting a flying pan, it is important to use as little paint as possible to avoid excessive accumulation and ensure smooth completion. -
Rinse and repeat.
Apply another layer of Fedora material to repeat the Stretch/cut/weed/paint process.
The use of frosted clear flying disc materials can make registration easier.
Adjust the registration and alignment principles we have covered to accommodate the materials and works you are painting.
Picture select I have a picture in my holiday snapshot taken in Hawaii.
After a few days at Waikiki beach, I was disappointed that there was no cold tropical drink in the pineapple shell.
I decided to have one so we went to the star market to buy pineapple, rum, juice and crazy straws.
We made drinks, decorated with plumb from the hotel, then went to the pier to enjoy the sunset.
I was very excited when some other tourists asked us where we had cool drinks. DIY or die!
In any case, when we returned to the hotel, we took turns posing for pictures with the remaining pineapple.
This is one of my favorite templates!
I use this image as a flying disc with some template plumb in the background of the canvas board.
This makes the image clear when the background is softer.
Computers and the like. . .
Contrast/brightness. . .
You know.
Marks, cuts and paint on it.
You know that now.
Keep in mind that too much paint build-up can cause peeling when you remove the disc material.
Use a thin coat to make it completely dry between colors.
Keep your hands light and weed carefully and everything will be fine. What\'s Next?
Go and try out more discs.
Put your name on the bag, add decorative elements to your window, or make a custom motorcycle tank. Go nuts!
There is an incredible variety of paint and application tools.
Here is an overview of what I have used and how I can use them.
Your mileage may vary.
Most of my template work is done with plain paint.
I mainly use the choice of Rustoleum painter and some special paints.
There\'s a lot to do with painting-
Full Color, fast drying time, convenient use, wide supply range, low price, and various functions.
You can get smooth fading and gradient, particle effect and dirty spot finish.
Modern paint is durable and does not fade or peel off.
Breath protection is a must when you use spray paint!
Buy a decent respirator if you take the template seriously.
The biggest drawback of spraying paint is empty cans.
Can\'t put roadside recovery.
The only way to get rid of them is to throw them in a normal trash can or empty them completely, chop them up and bring them to the scrap dealer.
Water-based coatings can also be used for templates and flying discs.
There are special template brushes but I use cheaper alternatives.
Basically, the steel mesh brush is wide and short.
It is used to apply paint on the template.
My favorite is an old fat round makeup brush my wife gave me.
It was a bit too soft at first, but the more I used it, the harder it was.
Another way to apply water-based paint is to use a roller.
This works especially well with the flying disc to produce a smooth surface.
Special rollers can be purchased or manufactured to create textures when they scroll.
Water-based paint can be diluted and sprayed with a spray gun, but I find it not ideal.
Diluted water-based coatings affect their adhesion and finish.
Water-based paint is very easy to clean and rich.
The main drawback of water-based coatings is that they tend to be soaked on paper to distort and sag.
I use it mainly on the boat and on the wall.
Acrylic paint can be mixed with textile media for washable formwork on fabric.
After drying, you can use an iron to shape the high quality clothing.
The water color can be used in many ways with the template and the flying disc.
They can be refined and sprayed with a spray gun to get detailed shadows.
It can be used with a small pump sprayer for fog effects.
It can also be gently applied with a sponge and rag as well as a dry brush for a variety of texture effects.
It can also be applied and then sprinkled over it with salt for a cool marble effect.
The color of the water is good for subtle effects and soft colors.
The main drawback of watercolor painting is that the color is not well mixed on the canvas (
They work best when the colors are mixed on the palate)
It will take them a while to dry.
Paint and oil-based paint are the options for the metal and automotive industries.
There are a lot of high-tech products out there, but for most of us, these products can meet all of our needs.
When sprayed on the proper precoat and primer surface, the paint and oil work best.
Like painting, these are harmful if excessive inhalation, so breath protection is a must.
Solvent is required for cleaning tools and spraying equipment.
The oil and paint are very messy, but they have a wide variety of colors and finishes and the effect is very good.
Ink and DyesI do not use ink and dyes very much, but if you use fabrics, spray-able inks and dyes designed for spray brushes, they will give you permanent, bright colors.
View lines from Createx-
They are always there.
Chemistry of victory!
In addition to paint and paint, there is more Template art.
Here are some other ideas that let your creativity flow-
You can use the bleach template.
Use standard laundry bleach in a pump sprayer with dark fabric templates.
Try applying gel bleach with a roller or scraping with a flying disc.
Bleach pens are great for accents and details.
The bleach template on the black T-shirt looks cool and organic.
Bleach requires some experiments to reduce the time.
If bleach is not washed in time, it burns holes in the T-shirt! -
When the metal reacts with oxygen, it rusts.
When we block oxygen from the surface of the metal, we prevent it from rust or oxidation.
By using a waterproof pan material on fresh metal and immersing it in salt water or vinegar, we can create images in rust.
If you use stronger acids, they actually eat the exposed metal, resulting in a raised design.
This is the way the printing board is made, and the way the copper is designed on the board. -
Over time, ultraviolet rays make the soft woods silver.
Attach the foil template to a fresh, light-colored fir or pine tree and place it on the windowsill where you can get plenty of sunshine.
Forget it as long as possible.
With enough time, the template image will appear gently in the wood. -
The thin metal template can also be used with the torch as a heat shield on the cork head to burn the image.
Make a template for Jesus or Mary, lightly on some publicly visible wooden surface or some random toast, and then watch the circus. -
You can also use what they clean the soldering iron to solve the problem of chemical burning images in a soft forest.
It evaporates under a hot gun, leaving an acid that burns wood. Google it. -
The NevrWet hygrophobic with a variety of uses of fun and creativity is completed.
Information that only appears in the rain.
Make a maze on a piece of acrylic with tape or a pan.
Paint it with NevrWet, tilt it back and forth, and move a drop of water through the maze. -
There is a DIY Glow Kit with conductive paint, dialect paint and fluorescent coating to make a DIY glow display on a metal base board.
I am eager to try to make a glowing template. -
This is not a real chemical reaction.
Unless you\'re using an old camera)
, But the small template attached to the camera lens causes all the unfocused light in the photo to produce a tiny luminous template.
For more information, please Google \"bokeh lens \". -
Finally, try making temporary body art using templates.
Before basking in the sun, a small template or shape placed on the skin will \"turn the image\" into \"your skin, just like a reverse brand.
Do you want a tramp stamp?
Try it before you buy it!
Let\'s take a look at some tools and equipment that might be useful.
Because we focus on painting, I would be remiss if I didn\'t mention that the pistol grip spray made by Zinzer and Rustoleum could handle it.
These plastic handles are stuck on spray cans, providing a convenient grip and trigger for controlling the paint.
They allow better pressure control and may be more comfortable for you than just holding the jar.
The spray tip is clogged so always save some spare parts from empty cans.
They sell fine sprays through art suppliers that produce different widths of spray, from fine lines to wide filling.
I have a few on hand that can be used occasionally, but I don\'t think they are particularly necessary.
You will want a range of brushes, rollers and other tools when you use water-based paint.
I use the 6 \"roller covered by the foam to get a smooth finish.
These foam rollers can also be carved to produce interesting textures.
There\'s nothing special about my steel mesh brush.
I use old makeup brushes, disposable chip brushes, foam brushes and old art brushes.
I also collected sponges for texture making.
There are a few old spatula in the kitchen.
The syringe is used to measure and transfer a small amount of paint.
You also need tape, newspapers, plastic bags and mixing cups.
Small pump bottles are also useful.
Spraying the solvent in the polyethylene pump bottle onto the wet painted surface will cause it to run and sag.
For subtle colors, the color of the water can be thinner and blurred on paper.
One of my favorite names is Misto.
It is designed for spraying food with oil containing herbs.
Like a low-pressure paint spray can that can be reused.
It can be filled with liquid and sealed.
There is a built-in pump that allows you to pressurize the contents.
When you press the spray button at the top, it will atomize and spray the liquid.
It is ideal for spraying watercolors, water-soluble inks and dyes.
Spray guns are sometimes useful for printing.
They are available in different sizes and are suitable for various applications.
There is a wind brush on the small end.
The wind brush is perfect for drawing smaller areas and details.
The spray gun uses an interchanging paint Cup, so it\'s easy to switch colors dynamically.
There are even multiple
Allows you to use gun units of several colors at the same time.
The wind brush is affordable and can be used with small compressors in disposable aerosol containers, refillable fuel tanks and even \"tank\" air.
Spray guns are a great way to experiment on cheap spray equipment.
Then we have the details.
These products are used for painting small areas of the automotive body industry.
The detail gun requires more air pressure and volume, which means a larger compressor, but it will also spray a larger volume of paint faster than the spray gun.
This is a good compromise between the spray gun and the larger spray gun.
The larger spray gun can cover a large area quickly and evenly.
They require more pressure and volume, so a larger compressor is needed.
They hold more paint so they need to refill less.
They are also hard to clean and switch colors quickly.
Both the spray gun and the spray gun are in a well-stocked store.
Beginners will find the spray gun easy to use and clean.
Because colors can be quickly converted and stored until they are needed, they are almost as convenient as a spray tank.
On the other hand, the spray gun cannot be switched as quickly as before.
This can be painful when making a template at a time, but if you make a lot of templates at a time, it\'s not a problem.
The main advantage of all spray equipment is that it controls color selection and paint formulation better than commercial spray tanks.
The compressor has various sizes.
Small tank-free compressors are the simplest and cheapest, but do not create too much pressure and volume.
They are more useful than small spray guns.
Large compressors below 5 gallons are quite cheap.
They will create enough pressure for the spray gun and the detail gun, and even the intermittent use of a larger spray gun.
Large store compressors with up to 50 gallon tank are great and can generate enough pressure and volume for all your painting needs, but they are expensive and take up space.
Store-sized compressors can be used for a variety of non-
Paint tools such as nail gun, Sanders, gas drill, mold grinder, air gun, plasma cutting machine, drill bit and cutting machine.
There is a noise problem with the compressor.
There are quiet compressors, but they are expensive.
Keep in mind the noise when setting up the work area and politely placing the compressor.
Another useful air tool if you are thinking about spraying equipment is \"air Eraser \".
This is basically a sand spray machine of the size of the wind brush.
When used with a rubber flying disc, it can be used to etching polished metal, stone and glass.
This is a reduced version of the stone tomb mark they made.
No matter what tools you end up with, you don\'t have to spend a lot of money.
Pawn shops and yard sales are important sources of tools.
All my spray guns are shipped from the port.
They are very good spray guns and very cheap.
Shop around and save on paint-
You will never have enough.
If it is flat paint, plywood, paper, fabric, glass, metal, concrete, wall, floor, furniture, books
The possibilities are endless.
You can draw on the stretched canvas or on a piece of scrap wood.
For commissions and \"good\" paintings, I like to use canvas boards.
I first cut a piece of square lead stone or thin plywood into the required size and then polish the edges.
Next, I cut a piece for about 2-
3 \"all the way bigger than the board.
I applied the whole front of the board with a thin white glue on the individual surface, carefully applied it to the canvas, and carefully eliminated any wrinkles and air bags.
Smooth and dry the canvas completely.
Next, roll the edges of the canvas on the back and glue them carefully, paying special attention to making the corners neat.
When all the glue is dry, apply a few layers of primer and let it dry.
These canvas boards look good and provide a good surface for the paint.
For friswork work, the canvas coating layer makes the working surface slightly softer.
This makes cutting easier.
On the other hand, since the canvas is too easy to cut and damage, the stretch canvas is the worst material to apply friskets.
Try different materials and see what works best for you.
Don\'t be fooled by higher prices = better quality thinking.
Dollar shop paint and recycling boards can achieve awesome results
This is all about images.
In this section, I will show you how to create textures for the background, etc.
Check the picture above and read the notes for more details.
One of the simplest textures is a gradient in which one color fades into another.
This is an important skill and should be practiced until you have mastered it.
Another cool texture is the burst effect.
This happens when two different paints are applied on top of one.
If the top layer is a paint recipe and dries faster than the bottom layer, it shrinks and shows the bottom color through cracks.
One way I do this is to spray a good normal paint and then apply a quick, uniform Lu sofa smoke on it and put it in front of the fan.
If all goes well, the falling paint will dry and cracks will appear on the ground floor.
Take some time to play with your paint and see what happens
You will find all kinds of cool effects and reactions.
The silicone spray brush is perfect for dragging, textured, rotating and mixing paint on the working surface.
These brushes are easy to clean
Let the paint dry and stretch the silicone a little.
The dry paint fell off immediately.
I have a few brushes like this.
A flat rectangular brush can drag waves and textures into the paint.
I have a round one that is good for tingling and rotating paint.
In the toy aisles of each pharmacy, they sell quirky-looking silicone inflatable toys, with small tentacles everywhere.
In addition to making it a little awkward for an adult to buy, they also made very cool brushes that can create cool textures.
Play things and see what happens!
The effect like marble can be achieved by spraying a layer of paint on the surface and letting it dry completely.
Next, spray a new coat in a different color and quickly cover it with a loose covered plastic bag.
Slide the plastic gently and peel it off.
Try the change of pressure, paint thickness or other parameters for different effects.
I make textures and patterns with mesh, lace, expanded metal, grille and other flat materials with holes.
By spraying on a flat object with a hole, the pattern of the hole is transferred to the surface.
3d effects can be created by spraying paint from two different plane angles.
The edge of the template shields the working surface so that any color below can be displayed.
This technique comes in handy when we play with text later.
One of my favorite effects is spots.
By barely pressing the spray button, the paint will spit out water droplets instead of fine fog.
By spraying many spots of various colors, a cool \"still\" effect is created.
This is a chaotic process.
Since the paint is produced at a lower pressure, it does not spray properly and will pile up around the nozzle.
If you don\'t wipe it often, it will drop on your surface and ruin your work.
If you \'ve ever been to the art fair, you\'ll see a group of people taking notes next to them doing \"Space Art\" with spray cans.
These guys did some great things.
Above, I shared a little bit of knowledge I learned from watching them create a space scene of a planet made with templates and plastic bags.
Play things with your imagination.
Look around your house with fresh eyes and see what experiment you can find. Make something-
Even if it\'s just a mess.
Now we\'re going to look at some ways to add text to the template.
This is very handy for making logos, cards, personalised items and many other lengthy items.
The text can be cut manually as a template or a flying disc.
For ease of cropping and readability, please select the font carefully.
There are a lot of template fonts available, and many other fonts can be easily modified as templates.
Sometimes you may want to use an inevitable Island font.
In this case, I cut the template as usual and then position the Island carefully.
I built a riser on the island with debris from the foam core, and several riser on the main mold board.
I connected the island with stiff wires to the rest of the template at the top of the riser.
This allows the spray to flow around the wire without affecting the image.
The profile and shadow effects look really good.
Create text.
Select text using the wand tool.
Create a new layer now.
Create an outline shape greater than the original text using stroke settings.
Adjust the stroke settings until you get so
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